We like to say “makeup is a washable accessory” but what about the kind that’s not? Microblading, for example. You should have an open and honest conversation with whomever you choose to do your permanent makeup application, because, well, it’s permanent!

Microblading and permanent makeup artist extraordinaire Kathleen Crawford answered all our questions. Follow her incredible work on Instagram @inkimagined.

1. What exactly is Microblading?

It’s a technique where fine hair-like strokes are etched into the skin with a hand tool called a microblade. The “blade” is a row of tiny needles positioned very close together. The microblade is scratched across the skin to a depth where the epidermis just meets the dermis. A semipermanent pigment is then pressed into the scratches and the skin heals over top of them creating a look of eyebrow hairs. The blades may have anywhere from 7 to 21 tiny needles of different diameters that are shaped in a slant/flat or a U. Each one gives a slightly different size and style of hair stroke.

2. Does it hurt?

It can. Most Artists use numbing cream, but some clients don’t numb very well, and it feels a little uncomfortable. It’s a scratching feeling, more irritating than painful for most.

3. Is it permanent?

Microblading is considered semipermanent due to the placement of the pigment in the skin. A regular tattoo is placed into the dermis and is considered permanent whereas microblading and permanent makeup are placed more superficially into the bottom layers of the epidermis so they will tend to fade over time. If your artist happens to go too deep and deposits pigment into the dermis, it can be permanent.

4. What if I don’t like it?

If you have a session of microblading and you don’t like it, there are removal processes. Removal works best if done within the first 48 hours before the pigment has had a chance to set in. It’s done with a special saline solution that causes the skin to expel the pigment. If you’ve waited longer than 48 hours or if you have old microblading that you wish to change or get rid of, it can be done but it can be a long and arduous process, not to mention somewhat painful.

5. Does it scar?

It can scar if not done properly or if you have skin that tends to keloid because the technique scratches a line across the skin. If done too deep, it creates a valley that can leave a scar. Also, not everyone is a good candidate for this technique. If you have aging skin, oily skin, or large pores, chances are you will not be a good candidate.

6. How do I choose an artist I can trust?

An excellent question. You should do a lot of research. Look at an artist’s before and after photos, check out their Instagram and/or website, get references and speak to previous clients, and ask a lot of questions—how long they’ve been the using the technique; if they are licensed and insured; if their facility is permitted by the health department or by the governing agency in their city or state; whether they do the removal process themselves or send you elsewhere if you dislike the result; if the follow-up appointment is included in the quoted price. Some artists include this and some charge an additional fee. There are a lot of amazing artists out there and a few not-so-great artists so please do your due diligence and research.

7. Does the color change?

Yes, the color will go through a healing process and change over time. Microblading tends to heal on the cooler side so many artists will add warmth to the pigments they use to counteract that. Your body and immune system also play a big role in how your color will end up. Your artist will know when he or she sees you for your follow-up appointment and will adjust accordingly.

8. Do I have to keep getting them done?

You will have your initial session and then come back for your follow-up anywhere from 6-12 weeks depending on your skin type and your artist. Some people may need a third perfecting session in another 6-12 weeks but generally after the initial follow up you should be good for at least 12-18 months. Some factors that play into how well you retain pigment are lifestyle, skin care regimens, and how fast or slow your body metabolizes the pigment. If you are in the sun every day and use products that contain ingredients that cause a high turnover of skin cells such as retinol or alpha hydroxy, then your pigment may fade quicker and you may require a touch-up sooner than 12 months. Generally speaking, though, if you take good care of them and use a good sunscreen every day, they should last for 1-2 years, sometimes longer.

9. Are there alternatives that give the same effect?

Yes. Machine tattooing, which is sometimes called nano strokes or hybrid brows, is a combination of machine-made hair strokes and shading to add texture. This technique is done with a tattoo machine or a PMU pen which is a tattoo machine designed specifically for permanent makeup. The main difference between using a hand tool and a machine is that the hand tool is dragged across the skin creating a small cut and the machine is done with a single needle or a configuration of 3 or more tiny needles. The needle penetrates the skin anywhere from 50 to 3,000 times per minute depending on the machine’s speed. This creates many tiny holes which replicate hair strokes rather than a cut so it tends to be less damaging to the skin and causes much less scarring than traditional microblading. However, if your artist is not experienced, even a machine can cause trauma and scarring to the skin. There is also a soft-tap method using a hand tool that is tapped into the skin rather than scratched across it.